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Fine watches – Top 10 Brands You Should Consider Investing in 2023

Ever wondered what are the Best Investment Watches in 2023?

There is nothing quite like the quality and craftsmanship of a luxury mechanical watch, as our watch experts at New Bond Street Pawnbrokers well know. Wearing a brand such as Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe makes a statement about who you are. But while many people view luxury watches as expensive accessories, the smart buyer knows that the right watch can also serve as a lucrative investment.

Many limited-edition or specialty watches can double or even treble in value once production ceases, making them some of the best watches to collect for investment in 2023. The trick is knowing which of the thousands of quality timepieces produced each year are the ones most likely to increase in value.

In this blog, we’ll take a look at the manufacturers and models which represent the best investment opportunity going forward.

Table of Contents

Impacts of The Russia-Ukraine War On Luxury Watches Investment

Forecasts put the global luxury watch market’s CAGR at 3.25 percent from 2022–2027. With sanctions against Russia causing the ruble to drop significantly and stock markets to remain closed, wealthy Russians are investing in luxury watches to protect the value of their savings.

In March 2022, sales in Russian luxury watch stores spiked following the international response to the country’s invasion of Ukraine, which heavily limited cash movement.

The trend gave the industry a short-term boost, but it was hard to predict how long that boost would last, given that the full implementation of the SWIFT policies was expected to make exporting to Russia challenging, if not impossible.

Putin announced a ban on depositing cash in foreign accounts to prevent money, particularly those held by wealthy Russians, from leaving the country and further destabilizing the economy. Luxury watches provided a haven and an investment during economic uncertainty.

However, Russia’s invasion effect on the price of luxury goods was a potential public relations nightmare. As of March 1, 2022, high-end companies such as Apple stopped selling in Russia. Reasonably, this is a cost for them, which might be offset by the positive communication image they enjoy in other market segments.

Bulgari has remained in Russia and seen an increase in sales. Meanwhile, the luxury watchmaker Watches of Switzerland has stepped down from the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) after they failed to sever ties with Russia.

Watches of Switzerland’s exit from RJC means that watch brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Grand Seiko, Tudor, Omega, Breitling, Tag Heuer, and Hublot are no longer available for firsthand sales in Russia. They’re among the best watches for investment in 2023.

Luxury Watches Market Trends During Russia-Ukraine War

Since so many watch brands have pulled out of Russia, the majority of luxury watches still available are by independent and privately-owned retailers who still have inventory left from before Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.

Since Bulgari watches are still available, their sales are on the rise as Russia’s wealthy are using them as the best investment watches.

Meanwhile, on the secondary market in Russia, well-known watches are fetching three times or more than their original price.

Some Russians have tried buying luxury watches outside of Russia. However, stores like Harrod’s have responded by limiting Russians from spending more than £300 in their stores, eliminating Russians’ ability to buy luxury watches there for sale on the black market.

Interestingly, the theft of luxury watches is on the rise in Europe, and some of the big buyers of these stolen watches are Russians.

Luxury Watches Competition Landscape During Russia-Ukraine War

Watches of Switzerland has increased in-store and online sales by 48% in the US during the 2022 fiscal year. Its revenue increased 36% in its home market, the UK. At the same time, the average firsthand luxury watch price has increased by 4%-5% in 2022.

Demand for luxury watches during the Russia-Ukraine war has far outstripped supply. Shortages were originally within brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. However, the shortage has spread to other luxury, high-end brands like Zenith, Omega, and IWC, making all of these brands excellent options for investment.

Stores can’t get enough of the newest products, like Zenith chronographs, IWC pilots, and Omega’s James Bond Seamaster and Speedmaster models. They’re flying off the shelves, making them some of the best watches to invest in 2023.

Three-fourths of current luxury watch sales are waitlist sales for watches that aren’t yet in stock. Watches of Switzerland is putting more people on waitlists than they are taking off waitlists. So, they still have financial insulation from the current economic slowdown.

The index for luxury watches is up 32% in the last year. And investment in luxury watches is still ahead of other alternative asset investments like vintage cars, gold, and cryptocurrencies.

Now that cryptocurrency values are down, some of the early-pandemic luxury watch investors are starting to sell their watches.

However, as equities and cryptocurrency valuations have tumbled, secondary market prices for luxury watches have started to fall. Without Russian and Chinese buyers, the prices have dropped an estimated 25%.

COVID-19’s Impact on the Luxury Watch Industry

Growth trends in the Luxury watch industry have been curious during the COVID-19 pandemic. Like with many other industries, watch shipment volume has dropped significantly.

Even with restrictions on movement and more cautious spending habits during the Covid-19 pandemic, there has been a 74% increase in demand for status-symbol watches and jewellery.

The best investment watches for the 2023 period are, as already mentioned above, among the Big Four watch brands, which continue the trend that makes their product so rare and desirable: limited production. Despite high demand, these brands are still strategically causing the scarcity of their products.

Most expensive watches sold during COVID-19 ( + potential investment tips)

What are the best investment watches for 2023 ?

Well…the best watches for investment in2023 will be a direct result of the trends we’ve seen over the past few years, with the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Daytona as forerunners.

1. Patek Philippe

The Nautilus Ref. 5711 has become the luxury watch to own after being discontinued in 2021, with a 61% value increase. In December 2021, the first of Patek Philippe’s limited-edition Tiffany & Co. Nautilus watches sold at auction for around £4.87 million.

They’ve just launched three contemporary takes on some of their most complicated and noblest watches, and all the prices are predictably breathtaking.

Patek Philippe’s remade rose gold 5204R is a rattrapante perpetual calendar chronograph with a launch price of £232,103.

Their new 5905/1A is a flyback chronograph with an annual calendar and is appearing in steel for the first time with a price tag of £44,295.

And, finally, the newest 4930P is a self-winding world-time flyback chronograph in white gold, starting at £75,299.

2. Rolex

Rolex is a timeless, luxury brand and will likely always be one of the safest and best brands in which to invest. They have addressed the recent high demand and low production trend. It is expected that Rolex will introduce new watches to the market this upcoming year. The price is expected to increase as it has been, deeming it a solid investment for 2023.

The value of the Rolex Daytona has increased by 37% and continues to be one of the most challenging models to find in the primary market, which has driven demand. Their stainless steel version is one of the most scarce and one of the top investment picks for 2023.

Of course, a timeless, elegant Swiss brand classic such as Rolex is a household name when it comes to the best luxury watch brands. Rolex continues to provide luxury watch owners with exquisite pieces and some of the best 2023 investment opportunities for watches.

These watches can appreciate significantly in value and are certainly a smart luxury watch investment for 2023 and beyond. In a recent 2021 New York Watch Auction, a circa 1971 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman ” model Rolex luxury watch sold for $321,300.

3. Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is another big name in the luxury watch market. The CEO directly described their pandemic strategy as keeping the perceived brand value and tweaking their global message.

They discontinued their iconic Royal Oak 15202ST Jumbo in 2022, so watch for this model to start skyrocketing in cost, while their upcoming 50th-anniversary edition will become the watch to own. Christie’s sold a retiring version for over £2.523 million in November 2021.

Moreover, Audemars Piguet continued to sell some of the most expensive watches in the world, with their extremely rare circa 2009 Royal Oak Grande Complication model recently sold at the December 2020 Racing Pulse New York Auction for $504,000

4. Richard Mille

Richard Mille’s Swiss watches have pushed the limit on luxury watch innovations. In December 2021, one of their 2012 Tourbilon watches sold for a whopping £883,384.

Richard Mille racing fans have been scrambling in 2022 for one of 150 limited-edition racing watches celebrating the return of the Le Mans automotive competition. Richard Mille sponsored this event at the Bugatti Circuit and is dedicating its eighth limited-edition model to the July 2022 return.

This sporty green, black, white, and red limited edition watch will retail for £131,810 and be a rare sighting indeed.

Other interesting watches sold during COVID-19

F.P. Journe

A young luxury Swiss watch manufacturer, F.P Journe was established in 1999 and has since developed a reputation for absolutely stunning, innovative luxury watch designs.

Their timepieces are often known for their gorgeous blue steel hands and mechanism display. This stunning, platinum 2001 Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain model F.P. Journe wristwatch was recently sold at the December 2021 New York Watch Auction for $567,000.

Tudor

Established in 1926, Tudor is a manufacturer of luxury Swiss wristwatches and is a sister company to Rolex. Tudor watches are known for their unique color palettes and excellent design. They are more affordable than Rolex, but still offer their sister company’s extremely high design and performance standards.

If you’re wondering if watches are a good investment for your 2023 portfolio, and want to acquire a luxury watch that isn’t as expensive as some of the abovementioned brands, then Tudor may be a great choice for you.

At the December Racing Pulse New York Auction, a very rare circa 1976 Submariner Marine Nationale model Tudor military-issue diver’s wristwatch sold for $35,280.

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin is a Swiss luxury watch brand founded in 1755. The brand offers truly elegant, classic timepieces. It is historically significant as the oldest Swiss manufacturer and one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world.

Those interested in investing in watches that hold value in 2023 should consider a Vacheron Constantin watch. At the November 2019 Geneva Watch Auction, a striking 1946 Indian Summer model Vacheron Constantin wristwatch sold for $64,800.

Heuer

Founded in 1860, the Heuer luxury watch brand is known for its extreme precision and easy-to-read timepieces. A circa 1962 Autavia “Full Lume” model Heuer wristwatch displaying Heuer’s signature large registers and full lume hands was recently sold at the December 2021 New York Watch Auction for $163,800.

De Bethune

Founded in 2002, this luxury Swiss watch brand has quickly become known for its high-tech materials and design. If you’re interested in acquiring cutting-edge, technical watches from a high-end luxury watch brand, then De Bethune is one to consider. A stunning circa 2007 white gold Avante-Garde De Bethune wristwatch featuring a night sky display recently sold at the December 2021 New York Auction for $176,400.

Final Thoughts on Watch Investment during COVID-19 (2019 – 2021)

As the experts at New Bond Street Pawnbrokers can attest, interest in luxury watches has exploded. If you already own one of the best watches for investment 2023, like a Nautilus, Royal Oak, or Daytona, congratulations.

If not, there are plenty more dream watches out there to fuel your investment watch dreams in 2023.

The Market for Watches Investment Before COVID-19

Rolex – was and is still one of the best investment watches in 2023

Where else could we start the prior-COVID section than with the venerable Swiss brand Rolex? Founded by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis in London in 1905, Rolex only moved to Switzerland in 1919 to avoid heavy taxes imposed by the British government following the Great War.

Its timepieces are instantly recognizable for their bold design and impeccable quality, and each watch is individually handcrafted by artisans, taking close to a year to make…this really makes it one of the best investment watches in 2023, and beyond.

It is rare for any Rolex not to be worth more than its retail prices after five years. But some models appreciate faster than others. So if you’re looking for a 2023 investment watch, stick to the popular sports models such as the Daytona, Explorer, or Submariner. The popularity of these models ensures there will always be a steady stream of buyers when you’re ready to sell.

If you can get your hands on a rare model or limited edition, so much better. At a recent auction in Somerset, a rare Submariner 5513 with the dial showing only the numbers three, six, and nine sold for £80,000. Not a bad return on a watch bought for just $69 in 1966.

Audemars Piguet – our favorite for the best watches to collect for investment in 2023

Founded by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in 1875, Audemars Piguet is one of the most innovative watchmakers in the world, and one of the best watches to collect for investment in and beyond 2023.

Highlights include the introduction of the minute repeater in 1892, and the world’s first skeleton watch in 1934. Today, the brand is highly regarded by collectors who love its distinctive styling, unmatched quality, and reliability.

As with Rolex, it is rare for any Audemars Piguet to be worth less than its retail value after five years. But there is one AP watch that is sure to increase in value more than any other (definitely one of the best watches to add to your investment portfolio in 2023). The Royal Oak Automatic. Manufactured from 280 components and 40 jewels, the Royal Oak’s 3120 calibre movement is renowned as one of the most reliable movements ever created.

But it is the timeless octagonal case and integrated bracelet, which have remained virtually unchanged since its inception in 1972, that ensures the Royal Oak will remain a favorite for collectors. Once again, the more limited pieces are the ones to go for, a rare 2005 semi-skeletonized tourbillon Royal Oak recently sold for $137,500 at auction.

Patek Philippe – unquestionably one of the top 3 best watches to invest in 2023

When brainstorming the best watches to invest in 2023, Patek Philippe is one of the most popular brands for watch connoisseurs and collectors. Famous for their understated style, exquisite design, and unmatched quality. Every component of a Patek Philippe watch from the case to the hands is hand-made and finished ensuring production numbers are limited.

Looking for more hints on why Patek Phillipe is one of the best watches to collect for investment in 2023?

Patek Philippe currently holds the record for the most expensive watch sold at auction as of 2023: $24 million was offered for a Henry Graves Supercomplication, one of the most complicated watches ever created. But you don’t have to spend that much to add one of these magnificent timepieces to your collection.

With such a venerable brand and reputation, you won’t go far wrong with any of the standard watches. Some models will appreciate more than others, however, making them better watches to invest in in 2023.

The Calatrava, for example, is always popular, but, as a vintage watch, it is small by today’s standards which may put some buyers off. For a more sound investment in watches, look for one of the post-1998 chronographs.

One of the most sought-after by collectors is the 5070 chronograph, released in 1998. This watch contains the renowned Calibre CH 27-70 movement which is regarded as one of the most beautifully designed chronograph movements available on the market and is popular with both connoisseurs and collectors alike.

One final thing to mention about Patek Philippe is that each watch has its history recorded in the brand’s archives. A quick search can tell you the exact date of manufacture and where it was sold.

Further investigation can reveal the names of buyers of vintage watches. You never know, you may find out the watch you want to purchase was once owned by a famous person, which will greatly enhance its value, adding it to your list of the best watches to invest 2023.

Vacheron Constantin – lower costs vs. higher range watches make this one of the best watches to invest in 2023

Vacheron Constantin was founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755, making it the world’s oldest watch manufacturer in continuous production, and another of the best brand watches to invest in 2023.

Francoise Constantin joined the firm in 1819 as an associate director, after which the firm was renamed Vacheron Constantin. The brand is renowned for its design, workmanship, and heritage with vintage examples regularly demanding high prices.

Vacheron Constantin is comparable in both design and quality with Patek Phillippe, but the brand is often overlooked by new collectors who favor the better-known Patek watches. This means prices for vintage examples are often less than half the price of a similar quality Patek Phillippe, making them excellent watches for investment in 2023.

However, the demand for these quality timepieces is sure to increase in the future, as more collectors realise the benefits of this quality brand….you should really add this to your list of best watches to collect for investment in 2023.

If you can find one, look for the vintage 4621, which is a classic watch much sought after by collectors. What is believed to be the first 4621 ever made sold at Christie’s in 2016 for a record $605,000.

Breguet – another great yet ofter overlooked candidate for the “best investment watches 2023 Award”

Founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet in Paris 1775, the firm quickly established itself as a watchmaker of some repute. Within five years, the brand’s customers included Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette.

Today, Breguet is part of the Swatch family but remains true to the founder’s principles of design excellence and innovation. Breguet watches are instantly recognizable with their pomme hands and guilloché dials.

As with Vacheron Constantin, the brand is often overlooked by newer collectors who favour the better-known brands, and yet you can release great value of these watches by pawning against their value.

But Breguet watches hold a special cache with connoisseurs who are willing to pay high prices for rare or interesting examples. As a result, any vintage or limited edition Breguet represents an excellent watch to collect for an investment opportunity and will give you the opportunity to own a true piece of horological art in the process.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Founded by Antoine LeCoultre in 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre was regarded as the most innovative watchmaker of the 19th century. The brand holds hundreds of patents, including the world’s smallest calibre and a near-perpetual movement.

Today the brand is regarded as a top-tier watchmaker alongside luminaries such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Breguet. Definitely one of our choice of best watches to buy for investment in 2023.

There are many popular Jaeger-LeCoultre models such as the Reverso, Memovox, and Ultra-thin moon watch. As with the other top-tier brands, you should stick to one of the classic models, or try and find a limited edition to guarantee your investment. Limited edition Reverso watches are always popular and regularly beat auction estimates.

One rare pink gold example recently sold for HK$118,750 ($15,150) more than twice its estimate.

Richard Mille – a more modern entry on the list of “best watch to buy for investment in 2023“

Most of the watch brands featured here are traditional watchmakers with hundreds of years of lineage, but Richard Mille is the exception and another fascinating entry on our list of best watches to buy for investment in 2023.

Founded in 1999, in just 20 years, Richard Mille has become legendary for its unique and innovative watches. The brand can be found on the wrist of many famous sports stars and celebrities including; Rafael Nadal, Jackie Chan, and Natalie Portman.

The reason for this success lies behind the distinctive and innovative style of the cases, combined with the exceptional engineering of the movements. Richard Mille watches are instantly recognizable due to their tonneau-shaped cases, which are often skeletonized to show off the exquisite detail of the movement encased inside.

From an investor’s perspective, the best thing about Richard Mille watches is that every single timepiece forms part of a limited collection. The more limited the number, the more valuable the watch.

One of the rarest models, the RM52 Tourbillon Skull Asia Edition, of which only six were made, sold at auction for HKD 3,460,000 (£346,000) in 2015. If that same watch were to come on the market today it would be worth over £500,000.

A. Lange & Sohne

Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, A. Lange & Sohne is regarded as one of the finest watchmakers in the world, and another favorite of ours for the best watches to invest in 2023.

As a German company, their watches differ in style from most Swiss manufacturers, with the brand favoring a more traditional Glashütte style which is similar to classic British watches. This understated look is what makes A. Lange & Sohne watches appealing to collectors.

When choosing an A. Lange & Sohne, it is best to stay away from the classic pieces and go for one of the limited edition Chronographs. One of the most desirable watches is the Dataograph Up/Down Lumen which was limited to 200 units and is sought-after by both connoisseurs and collectors alike.

The best price that was achieved at auction for an A. Lange & Sohne was $825,525 for an elegant 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”, which was a single watch created to celebrate the life of Walter Lange who died in 2017.

IWC

The International Watch Company (IWC) is a Swiss brand founded by American engineer Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868. The brand was founded with the aim of combining advanced American manufacturing techniques with traditional Swiss craftsmanship. The watches were to be assembled in a factory which was groundbreaking at a time when most watch components were being assembled in people’s homes.

Today, the brand is focused on producing high-quality mechanical timepieces and chronographs. IWC do not have the same following as the more famous brands such as Rolex or Patek Philippe watches, but that does not mean they do not make good investment consideration for 2023.

In fact, you can pick up an IWC watch for a fraction of the price of a similar quality Patek. One piece to look out for is the Ingenieur 3227 which has an unusual hexagonal case. This watch was recently discontinued and prices are starting to firm, but it still remains accessible to most buyers.

Panerai

For the best watches to invest in 2022 – 2023 list our final brand is the Italian manufacturer, Panerai.

Named after founder Giovanni Panerai who opened his first watch shop in Florence, Italy in 1860. Panerai watches have become increasingly collectible in recent years, thanks to their unusual cushion-shaped cases and quality movements.

All Panerai watches are limited edition, albeit the differences between them are slight. This means every Panerai watch will become collectible at some point, with rarer editions being the most sought-after.

If you are just starting your watch investment portfolio, the Panerai Luminor Base is a great place to start. Introduced in 1950, the Luminor is a dive watch containing an ETA 6497 hand-wound movement. This movement was replaced by Panerai’s own movement in 2017 which bumped up the price by more than £1000. This makes the original ETA 6497 based Luminor a bargain, and it’s sure to increase in value as new models become more expensive.

As you can see, the choice of the best watches to collect for investment in 2023 is vast and covers a wide spectrum of prices. You can start your collection by spending only a few thousand pounds, or you could literally invest millions.

As with any investment, no watch is guaranteed to increase in value. But if you buy a good watch from a reputable and knowledgeable buyer, you can greatly increase your chances of success.

If you like watches, then we wrote articles on the Top 10 most expensive Rolexes ever sold , Top 10 Most Expensive Watches ever sold, and Top 10 Brands of Fine Watches you Should Invest in

And a shortlist of the best luxury diving watches to buy in 2023…

One of the best things about collecting luxury watches is picking out different watches with different features, to suit different aspects of your lifestyle.

Whether you’re a keen driver, sailor, globetrotter, or diver, there’s a luxury watch out there that can suit your needs. One feature that is incredibly popular is water resistance to a depth of between 50 to 300 metres; colloquially these pieces are known as diving watches. Some diving watches are purely functional – such as those worn by scuba divers – but many diving watches are on the more luxury end of the scale.

Here are the top five luxury watches you can buy today that you can wear while swimming or diving.

Rolex Deepsea

Even within the category of diving watches, there are many different types you can get for numerous applications. The Rolex Deepsea is the watch you want if you’re going to dive using scuba equipment, and another “best watch to buy for investment in 2023“.

It is pressure tested, and guaranteed to be waterproof to 1.2km below the surface. The watch also includes a helium escape valve, which allows the timepiece to decompress before returning to the surface. This allows the watch to be brought back to the surface safely after deep sea diving.

This watch’s incredible resistance to water at great depths does nothing to compromise on luxury; to the naked eye it looks like a classic Rolex design that wouldn’t look out of place on the red carpet.

If you’re a scuba diver, and you’re looking for a luxury timepiece that won’t let you down at any depth, the Deepsea is the watch for you.

Omega Seamaster Ploprof

If you’re keen on the impressive water resistance of the Rolex Deepsea, but want something less flashy and more functional, the Seamaster Ploprof is one of the best watch to invest in 2023.

There are a number of different straps available, including rubber and metal, and all of them can be adjusted to be large enough to fit over a diving suit. A large, prominent button allows the diver’s bezel to be set while underwater and wearing gloves, while the chunky dial allows divers to change settings while underwater.

It is water-resistant to 1.2km, meaning that the vast majority of divers will never have to worry about exceeding its pressure limit. You wouldn’t wear this one to a party, but if you’re a serious diver, this is a solid, practical watch.

Rolex Submariner

The Submariner is known by many as the quintessential James Bond watch, after Sean Connery, Roger Moore, George Lazenby, and Timothy Dalton’s Bond’s all wore one. However, as the name of the watch suggests, it is also an extremely capable diving watch, able to be submerged safely at depths of up to 1,000 feet.

Its unidirectional rotatable bezel allows divers to safely and accurately monitor diving time and compression stops.

Despite all of its spectacular diving features, the luxury of the Submariner is such that many users will never take it diving. They just like the watch. And can you really blame them?

Omega Seamaster

From one James Bond watch to another – the Submariner has been the official watch of 007 since Pierce Brosnan took up the role in the 1990s, and one of our favorites for the best watches to invest in 2023 list.

Like the Submariner, the Omega Seamaster can also reach depths of 1,000 feet, and is a direct competitor to Rolex’s premier diving watch in every sense. Again, many users of the Seamaster will not choose to take it diving, content that it’s a luxury watch that looks great on their wrist.

With many different models available, in many different colours, buyers can also pick out a watch that suits their individual style and tastes.

Whether they like a clean, plain classic, a brightly coloured face and bezel, or even a watch clad in diamonds, the Seamaster provides all of these options, equally wearable while out for dinner or while scuba diving.

If we chose only 4 of the Best Luxury Watches to Invest in 2023…

Watches that hold value in 2023 are an ideal investment for those that want a flexible asset that can be quickly accessed and converted into cash. You can wear this asset daily, and still, turn around and sell it for a profit later on. Unlike luxury cars, watches do not quickly depreciate over time, and their scarcity creates demand and value.

The global luxury watch market is currently valued at £17.695 billion, with a compound annual growth rate of 3.25% expected for 2022-2026.

The best watch brands to invest in 2023, in our opinion, remain the Big Four: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille. These timeless brands still prove to have the most sought-after best luxury watches.

How to value the best watches to invest in 2023

Fine watches are a popular luxury item all around the world, with many top brands being synonymous with prestige, class, and style. Whether you’re thinking about loaning against fine watches or selling them, the first thing you need to consider is their value.

At New Bond Street Pawnbrokers, we have arranged many loans against fine watches over a period of decades, and our team of timepiece appraisers has become unrivaled experts at determining the value of collectible watches in the process.

Like so many assets, the popularity (and, accordingly, the value) of fine watches can fluctuate over time, and what might be highly collectible today may prove a difficult sell in a few months’ time. On the flip side, a watch deemed unfashionable that does not sell well can become a rare piece in years to come, increasing its value.

Here at New Bond Street Pawnbrokers, we offer loans against fine watches regularly, and there are certain principles that will stand you in good stead when you wish to buy your fine watch for investment purpuses.

Here are the main valuation factors to look out for when seeking loans against fine watches.

Manufacturer and model

When considering what is the best watch to buy for investment in 2023, the obvious starting point is the manufacturer of the watch and the specific model.

Certain names automatically translate to market-value in a timepiece.

Loans against Patek Philippe watches, for instance, tend to attract a higher value since this particular brand of wristwatch regularly appreciates in value by a significant amount from its original purchase price.

Loans against Rolex watches, on the other hand, whilst more plentiful, and by no means less beautiful, rarely attract the same % increase in value. That is not to say that your Rolex is not valuable, however. Certain models of Rolex (the Rolex Red Submariner, for example) have appreciated by a considerable margin since their original release and might be a worthwhile deposit if you were thinking of pawning your Rolex.

And even if your Rolex hasn’t significantly increased in value it’s likely that it will have at least held the original value you bought it for.

Condition

When considering investing in fine watches, the condition is everything.

Generally speaking, people are looking to buy fine timepieces in as near-to-mint condition as they can. This means that any restoration work done to a watch is very likely to negatively affect its value. Anyone looking to take out loans against Vacheron Constantin, for example, would be hard-pressed to strike a good deal if parts have been noticeably replaced, or if the face is clouded over with dents, scratches, or other cosmetic blemishes.

However, it is worth noting that there is a growing school of thought among watch collectors that a watch having scratches and other imperfections is not necessarily always a bad thing. If the imperfections tell a story and add to the character of a watch, they could help to make it more valuable.

Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona was scratched and damaged, but this did not affect its value; it actually became the most expensive watch of all time when it went up for auction. These are all factors you must consider when taking out loans against fine watches, hence you should really consider these factors when placing your 2022 investment in luxury watches.

Age

Whilst some models of luxury watches hold their value for years after production, many do not. If the timepiece in question was being worn, rather than on display, or in a collection, then the odds are good that it has undergone some damage, simply by being exposed to the elements during day-to-day usage.

That said, certain models are considered vintage, and so their condition must be balanced up against their rarity in the marketplace.

The fine Swiss watch manufacturer, Audemars Piguet, has been producing wristwatches since 1875. Should one of their original repeater wristwatches ever show up, any superficial damage would be outweighed by the historical nature of the watch itself. This is not to say that Audemars Piguet investment prices automatically attract a higher value, merely to illustrate that condition, age, and rarity must all be considered when assessing the worth of a fine watch.

Provenance

The best watches to buy for investment in 2023 and beyond are luxury items and, being so, often come in handsomely appointed presentation boxes. Those boxes, in mint condition, add value to the watch itself, as does the original bill of sale, confirming the original cost of the item.

Servicing papers can add further value to the piece, confirming that any repairs to the watch were conducted by a trained and certified professional.

Indeed, any of the original materials or paperwork that came with the watch are worth keeping hold of, as they can do nothing but boost the value when trying to pawn or resell. This can include (depending on make and model) warranty cards, warranty booklets, serial number tags, and polishing cloths.

Materials

While most of the value in your luxury watch is invested in the brand name, the specific model and the condition of the piece itself, the material the watch is made from can also determine its worth.

Many precious metals go into the manufacture of luxury watches – gold and platinum being the most popular – and these have an inherent value beyond the function and design of the watch itself.

Certain high-end watches also include precious gems like rubies, diamonds, and sapphires, which again have an appreciable value of their own.

You should expect any embellishments like this to enhance the value of your watch.

Salvage

It may be that your fine watch has seen better days, and that’s a shame.

However, whilst the watch itself might not fetch much either on the open market or as the basis of a loan, the internal parts or materials might still be of interest if they remain in good condition. Watch repair and maintenance is a highly skilled profession, and original parts are often at a premium in this industry.

So even if the outside of your watch is scuffed and dented through decades of regular use, it’s entirely possible that its internal workings still hold some value.

Is it genuine?

It is a sad fact that in any arena where high-value goods are sold there are always disreputable people looking to make a profit from unwary consumers.

As such, fake and duplicate timepieces are rife in the luxury watch trade, many of them looking extremely convincing to the untrained eye. Fortunately, our team of assessors brings years of experience to the table, and can quickly identify fraudulent items, and the best watches to invest in 2023 and beyond.